The Mediterranean has always been the ultimate canvas for Simon Porte Jacquemus, but on a breezy Monday afternoon, the French designer elevated his signature sun-drenched visual identity to breathtaking new heights. Against the rugged cliffs of Île-Rousse in Corsica, and looking out over a stormy sea where sailboats were meticulously aligned to spell out his name, global stars like Isabelle Huppert, Katseye’s Manon Bannerman, and Korean actor Park Seo-jun gathered to witness the dawn of a new chapter. This extraordinary destination runway marked the unveiling of the Spring/Summer 2027 collection, poignantly titled “Le Bonheur”—meaning happiness. The timing of the show carried an extra layer of anticipation, arriving just ahead of the upcoming spring launch of the brand’s first beauty line in collaboration with L’Oréal.
At the heart of “Le Bonheur” lies a radiant spirit, an inner joy that shines outward to capture a timeless Jacquemus moment. The designer imagined this collection as summer itself, embodying the sun, vibrant colors, the beauty of simple things, and an overarching feeling of lightness. The narrative tells the story of an extended summer spent in the embrace of nature, reflecting the warmth of morning light, fabric dancing in the wind, and the sensory pleasure of biting into ripe summer fruits like mango, dragon fruit, and orange. Under Jacquemus’s touch, these pure, simple moments were translated into garments that pulse with freshness, movement, and an effortless allure.
The designs seamlessly balanced minimalism with a playful touch, showcasing precise craftsmanship and a luxurious fluid lightness. Sheer triple organza was crafted into delicate jackets and shorts, while long coats swayed with every step, and high-waisted trousers swept down to fluidly widen at the hem. In a beautiful display of movement, a divided skirt parted to reveal a flash of turquoise shorts before cascading down to the ankles, while striped pieces played with varying densities from opaque to sheer, hinting at the silhouette beneath. Fluid black chiffon dresses drifted through the air, while sporty silhouettes received an elegant upgrade, featuring classic sweatshirts reimagined in ultra-thin leather or crepe, and others adorned with shibori-treated organza where the fabric was sculpted around a pearl to leave a structural imprint.
Texture and handcraft took center stage through spectacular juxtapositions, such as pairing these structured tops with layered taffeta skirts enveloped in waterfalls of red ostrich feathers resembling tiny buds, requiring around 2700 feather bouquets. For men, tailored suits crafted from technical taffeta featured jackets tucked into belted trousers to emphasize the waist. The organic met the geometric in highly detailed knitwear pieces, including a sporty racerback dress and a structured men’s shirt. Nature was closely mimicked in details like bright orange leather trousers textured to resemble fruit rind, and undulating, seaweed-like elements constructed from bias-cut silk organza strips that rippled across dresses. Jacquemus even integrated secret details, such as contrasting striped linings meant to be hidden from view, known only to the wearer.
The color palette across the collection felt artfully painterly, blending soft pastels with striking, vibrant contrasts. A silk-wool trench coat commanded attention in a vivid pop yellow, a bold green shirt energized a blended wool jacket, and sharp orange accents framed the hems of trousers, all complemented by a sleek tube dress in deep teal crepe. This artistic approach extended into the summer accessories, where colorful socks were paired with sandals, and the ultra-lightweight “Les Ballerines Pietra” shoes were designed with enough flexibility to fold completely in half. The iconic “The Valérie” top-handle bag returned in smooth leather across a variety of unique prints, embroideries, and colors, alongside the debut of “Le Tote Pietra,” a spacious yet elegant minimalist tote featuring a distinctive calisson-shaped base.
